Written by Melissa Sewell / photo by James Hernandez

Frozen custard actually doesn’t have anything to do with custard. It’s just ice cream, plus eggs, a touch more cream. However simple, the effect is lovely. Frozen custard is creamier than ice cream, softer and melts more slowly. Unlike ice cream, frozen custard doesn’t ship or store well, so it must be prepared fresh if it’s going to taste good. At G’s Frozen Custard & Yogurt at 6th and Lincoln, it is fresh. And it tastes good.

G’s carries many flavors of frozen custard, which owner Doug Colley rotates during the colder months. As the weather warms, however, the store will keep as many as sixteen flavors in stock at one time. The flavor that Colley says the store is known for is brown bread – a subtle maple-flavored custard with grape nuts mixed in. It sounds a little strange, but is actually brilliantly delicious. “It’s a Topeka original,” Colley explains.

If brown bread sounds a little heavy, the lemon won’t lead you astray. It is crisp, bright as the morning sun and light on the stomach.

And if neither of those sound good to you, maybe you should give mint chocolate chip a try. Or sour nerd, or ruby red, or vanilla, or chocolate chocolate chip or or or… But don’t be overwhelmed. You have the whole summer to find your favorite.